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Discussion Starter #1
Every time I park my car, it leaks a puddle of coolant out about 4" round or so. I can't tell where its coming from, as it leaks onto the front suspension and spreads, but my guess is the water pump. The car is an 84, and I have no idea if the pump has ever been changed or not. What I was wondering, is how hard is the pump to change, and what parts will I need besides the pump and gaskets?

Another thing I need to know, is what pump to buy. There are new ones, rebuilt ones, heavy duty ones, then aftermarket ones such as edelbrock etc. Any idea what I should do? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A little more info: The car is pretty well stock, gets lots of highway miles (quite a few around town as well) and has A/C. I think thats about all the info I'd need. Any suggestions?
 

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DC Crew
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Get a lifetime warranty deal from your local parts store. If you have ever changed a water pump on a SBC then you can do this one. Lay down under the car and look at the bottom of the pump. If it is leaking you'll see it from the weap hole.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So a lifetime warranty rebuilt one is where its at then? Also, is it easy to see the weep hole from under the car? I tried to feel it for moisture from the top, but I'd need an extra elbow in the middle of my forearm to do that.
 

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DC Crew
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muddpile said:
So a lifetime warranty rebuilt one is where its at then? Also, is it easy to see the weep hole from under the car? I tried to feel it for moisture from the top, but I'd need an extra elbow in the middle of my forearm to do that.
You could slam the hood on your forearm and it should bend better then.:laughing:
 

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buy a gasket scraper & emory cloth, that factory formed (bent ) bypass hose, on top of pump, (around 3 inches long ,if yours has one). you might as well change the actuall radiator hoses while you've got the coolant drained, and heater core hoses. a tube of form-a-gasket, can of brake clean. New hose clamps and a 12 pack
 

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I put a Flowkooler in my 383 and it works great. A little more spendy than most but worth it. Stewart also makes a nice unit.

You may need to use some heat to get the nipple off the fuel pump - it is the line that runs to the heater core. Also make sure you put hose clamp on the nipple such that it does not hit the AC bracket. The AC bracket will break when you tighten it back down - ask me how I know. Other than that it is no mystery because it is a SBC. Just a PITA to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered up a rebuilt unit with lifetime warranty today for $30 Canadian, plus $1.50 for gaskets. They asked if it was a single bypass or a dual, and I told them single, as all I could see was the one right above the lower radiator hose. Was I right, are they single?

Also, why would they ask me if it is single or dual? Wouldn't all 84 vettes be the same, or were there differences? Thanks for the help guys!
 

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I've only ever seen single ones, I don't know what that guy is talking about. I agree with the advice that you should change the radiator hoses while you're in there. I used teflon tape on that extension thingy. It's a lot of work to get to the w/p, basically everything has to come off the front of the engine, but you can do it in less than a day. I kind of went overboard on the gaskets, I used sealant on both sides of the gaskets, let it dry for several hours as I put everything back together and then waited another couple of hours before refilling. It's a satisfying job to do this repair yourself, because a shop will charge an arm and a leg. It's not that difficult either, just a lot of stuff to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My car hates me.... It does........ It doesn't want to work right........

Well, the parts store sent me the wrong water pump. I have no idea what it fits, but it is NOT for any chevy small block I've ever seen. I decided I'd just take the old one off and take it in for them to match up to. Well, I went to take it off, and I'm stuck once again. How on earth does the air conditioning compressor come off. I got everything else removed ( AIR pump, alternator, power steering bracket, etc.) but it won't come off. The lower hard line that goes to the front of the car is in its path. I took all the bolts out, but one is kind of stuck. Its one that holds the bottom of the compressor to the bracket. The bolt goes in from the back, but it looks like it won't come all the way out unless I take the passenger valve cover off. It looks to be my only hope of getting the compressor bracket off of the two studs that hold the pump in place. Anyone know how this comes off?
 

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I have an 89, so my compressor is different, but I've heard that the earlier compressor is difficult to remove. This subject has come up before, if you do a search on "water pump" you'll find the solution, but IIRC the difficult bolt has a torx impression on the end. Oh, BTW, you will also have to disconnect the fuel lines to remove the compressor bracket, I use flare nut wrenches on those metal lines because if you kink them you'll have to refabricate your fuel lines. Also, the Haynes manual says to evacuate the fuel lines just pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car and let it run until it dies, just a few seconds, this will relieve most of the fuel from the lines prior to removing them. Once you get to that part, you'll need a deep socket to remove one of the compressor bracket bolts, but I forget what size.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good news (sort of). My water pump is fine. Its a fresh rebuild from before I bought the car, and still looks like new. The leak was coming from a loose intake bolt, so I tightened it up and no more leaks. Thanks for the help regardless. While I was at it, I got rid of the AIR pump and all the hardware for it, as the bearings were starting to grind. Works awesome now!
 

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CAn you explain where the intake bolt was that was loose. I am having a very similar problem with my 86, and I am wondering if it could be the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Front bolt on the drivers side was loose. It's right beside the front coolant port. Keep in mind we have different intakes (crossfire vs TPI)
 
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