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I have heard from a few people, which is the only reason why i give this any credence, that you shouldn't wax the car within the first year. Something to do with the paint still bonding or what have you. If anyone can shed some light on the subject please let me know.
Also in a leather conditioner/ cleaner do you want to look for one with or without lanolin? I remember hearing something about lanolin in the past but i forget which way it went.
Thanks
-Rich
 

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A body shop that works strictly with corvettes that I have dealt with before told me to wait 2-4 weeks before waxing becuase the drying paint gives off gases or something of the sort.

Not sure about the leather though
 

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I have heard from a few people, which is the only reason why i give this any credence, that you shouldn't wax the car within the first year. Something to do with the paint still bonding or what have you. If anyone can shed some light on the subject please let me know.
Also in a leather conditioner/ cleaner do you want to look for one with or without lanolin? I remember hearing something about lanolin in the past but i forget which way it went.
Thanks
-Rich
I'm sure the Adams guys will chime in, I would think that by the time you take delivery of your new Corvette waxing would be just fine.

Not sure about lanolin. I just use the Adams leather products and it works and looks great. :thumbsup:
 

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A body shop that works strictly with corvettes that I have dealt with before told me to wait 2-4 weeks before waxing becuase the drying paint gives off gases or something of the sort.

Not sure about the leather though
Well, someone has been given the incorrect information or there are a number of new cars that have been treated improperly including mine. All new cars delivered by the R8C program at the NCM are waxed with C-Magic Wax (The official wax of the NCM).
 

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I was under the impression that certain paints with the clear coat or tint-coat finish don't need to be waxed until the coat layer wears off... that might be the one year mark????

(This info came from a Nissan dealer after we purchased an '03 350Z)
 

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after i got my parts painted the guy said not to put ANY sort of wax/polish for 90 days........but i dont know why its only been like maby 40 and i want to try my adams even though i use detail spray on it
 

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I was under the impression that certain paints with the clear coat or tint-coat finish don't need to be waxed until the coat layer wears off... that might be the one year mark????

(This info came from a Nissan dealer after we purchased an '03 350Z)

Never heard of a "coat layer". Are we discussing Nissans or Corvettes? Perhaps they have something different applied? I hope my clear coat doesn't wear off anytime soon.
 

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I have heard from a few people, which is the only reason why i give this any credence, that you shouldn't wax the car within the first year. Something to do with the paint still bonding or what have you. If anyone can shed some light on the subject please let me know.
Also in a leather conditioner/ cleaner do you want to look for one with or without lanolin? I remember hearing something about lanolin in the past but i forget which way it went.
Thanks
-Rich
I'm sure the painting process used by GM these days got to be top-notch. I'm sure you can wax your car as early as in 30 days
as good safety measure
As for the lanolin, it's said that lanolin will migrate. It doesn't stay in the hide. Lanolin is what makes some finishes "greasy" looking

I've always preferred the satin look of my interior vinyl, and the natural look on the leather
 

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Never heard of a "coat layer". Are we discussing Nissans or Corvettes? Perhaps they have something different applied? I hope my clear coat doesn't wear off anytime soon.
Beats me:laughing:

The guy that told me this probably has grease monkey check his blinker fluid and grease his armrests:crazy:

:cheers:
 

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The paint on all new cars is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. New car manufactures use heat and ovens to expedite the out gassing process, so by day two or three when the vehicle is rolled out of the manufacturing facility it can be wax immediately.

By not applying some sort of paint protection or wax to your new car you can actually damage the paint instead of help it. Sometimes dealers and salesman rely on old information that waxing shouldn't be done for the first few months of ownership and is just not true anymore.

If the car has been repainted, then there is always a waiting period to wax it, just because the car can not be baked like it was in the factory. The painter of the vehicle will be able to give you an approximate dry time.

As for your second question, Lanolin is a wool fat or wool grease that sheep have, which is used to help waterproof and shed moisture from their coats. Leathers conditioners that contain that element are designed for horse saddles since they are exposed to harsh elements. Rather than locking out the moisture, you want to keep the moisture in by using a product that has UV blocking agents and rich conditioners.

Hope this helps! Good luck:thumbsup:
 

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The paint on all new cars is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. New car manufactures use heat and ovens to expedite the out gassing process, so by day two or three when the vehicle is rolled out of the manufacturing facility it can be wax immediately.

By not applying some sort of paint protection or wax to your new car you can actually damage the paint instead of help it. Sometimes dealers and salesman rely on old information that waxing shouldn't be done for the first few months of ownership and is just not true anymore.

If the car has been repainted, then there is always a waiting period to wax it, just because the car can not be baked like it was in the factory. The painter of the vehicle will be able to give you an approximate dry time.

As for your second question, Lanolin is a wool fat or wool grease that sheep have, which is used to help waterproof and shed moisture from their coats. Leathers conditioners that contain that element are designed for horse saddles since they are exposed to harsh elements. Rather than locking out the moisture, you want to keep the moisture in by using a product that has UV blocking agents and rich conditioners.

Hope this helps! Good luck:thumbsup:
Another fine example on Adams customer service and knowledge base.
 

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Factory fresh, and re-painted cars are two different things.
Re-paint, go by what your painter says.
New, you're already late, get going.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info guys, and especially to the Adams guy. Guess i got some waxing to do.
Thanks again.
 

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The paint on all new cars is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line. New car manufactures use heat and ovens to expedite the out gassing process, so by day two or three when the vehicle is rolled out of the manufacturing facility it can be wax immediately.

By not applying some sort of paint protection or wax to your new car you can actually damage the paint instead of help it. Sometimes dealers and salesman rely on old information that waxing shouldn't be done for the first few months of ownership and is just not true anymore.

If the car has been repainted, then there is always a waiting period to wax it, just because the car can not be baked like it was in the factory. The painter of the vehicle will be able to give you an approximate dry time.

As for your second question, Lanolin is a wool fat or wool grease that sheep have, which is used to help waterproof and shed moisture from their coats. Leathers conditioners that contain that element are designed for horse saddles since they are exposed to harsh elements. Rather than locking out the moisture, you want to keep the moisture in by using a product that has UV blocking agents and rich conditioners.

Hope this helps! Good luck:thumbsup:
when i had my parts painted they had it in an oven.....is it the same thing as the car manufactures do?
 

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Never heard of a "coat layer". Are we discussing Nissans or Corvettes? Perhaps they have something different applied? I hope my clear coat doesn't wear off anytime soon.
That must be the cosmoline Nissan puts on to keep the salt water off the paint during shipment....:rolling:
 

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I just had a repair done to my wife's VW beetle and the body man told her not to wax for 90 days.

Watched Dirty Jobs last night and Mike was at a tannery, glad I don't have to work there, just not my cup of tea. Nasty things to work through the tanning process. Smell just can't be conveyed through Television.
 

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after i got my parts painted the guy said not to put ANY sort of wax/polish for 90 days........but i dont know why its only been like maby 40 and i want to try my adams even though i use detail spray on it
You should listen to the painter. Many clears take 60-90 days to fully cure. During this curing period the paint is still out gassing. This basically means that some of the solvents in the clear are still escaping. If you place a wax, or any type of sealant over the fresh paint it will inhibit the paint's ability to cure, and could result in a condition known as solvent pop. Some products are labeled as body shop safe. They contain no silicone, and are not designed to act as a seal type barrier. You can always find these at your local automotive paint store, and they would be fine to use until the curing process is completed.
 
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