Awful broad-based question, don'tcha think?:huh:
Some C3-owners install tinted windows, some wheels, other exhaust.
The only flaw on my '82 when I got it in '00 was a small 'tear' of the vinyl of my seat. For $200, it was fixed perfectly.:thumbsup:
Most people would classify $200 as not being a little bit . However I just do little things like paint the exhaust, rear spring, misc. brackes and parts in the engine compartment. The most expensive of these would be my light display in the AC vents that pulse to the music that you are listening to. I did the circuit board and everything myself and the next thing i will be doing is installing a strip of blue and red LEDs on the sunvisors and hook them up to a flashing circuit so at the flick of a light you have "Rice Patrol":laughing:
my car is silver and charcoal. the silver seemed to blend into the road and alot of people would pull out in front of me, especially on sunny days...they just didn't see the car.
i installed some daylight running lights under the front nose. you can hardly see them, since i used the slim flat type and recessed them enough to they aren't noticable. i used the rear window defroster circuit to operate them, since they are 55watts each and it's a hi-amp circuit. i removed the switch for the window defroster, made my own out of a lighted thumb switch, a black plate and it worked perfect. it doesn't look bad either, which is something i had to be careful with because my old lady would have bitched if it looked micky mouse.
anyways, at least i'm visible now.
also, got rid of the original radio (UGH) and installed a cd player in it's place. looks great too and no regrets. this winter i'll upgrade the speaker system along with several other projects i have planned.
Holes don't weigh anything and cost nothing but time.
I swish cheezed my front vacuum tube and all front brakets and lost 40 pounds. I just started drilling away and later deburred and powder coated everything.
Later I ditched everything behind the new fiberglass bumper. Even the plate behind the license plate weighs alot.
50 pounds in the nose is not hard to loose.
Double click to enlarge
Patric I don't have a clue as to front to rear weight ratio. My entire car is custom. Every single piece. It is modified in some way. Having a 454 with a 8-71 blower can't help the front end much. The car weights 3500 with a full tank of gas. I run iron heads because of the thousands of dollars I have tied up in them. Aluminum heads would only be a weight saving not an improvement in flow.
The front vacuum tube starts out at about 39 pounds and ended up at 19. It looks trick, saves weight and the headlights don't even know it is gone. With the engine idleing and the vacuum tube hooked directly to the intake the lights open like normal and the motor doesn't miss a beat.
raid magic. As far as strength I don't know either and don't worry about it. As far as a support in the front end the drilled tube is plenty strong. If I have a head on my motor will have to take the impact. That tube will not save me, holes or no holes.
There is not a bracket I think on the car that hasn't had the hole treatment or replaced with aluminum.
I turned myself a set of 17 inch 5 spoke wheels, yes a custom hand made set but after feeling their weight and comparing it to my centerline auto drags I put them on my mustang.
I also have a 89 355 nitrous, caged, slicked 11 second mustang.
raidmagic. This is my 75. It puts out 940 desk top dyno horsepower, gets 15 mpg, never overheats, fouls plugs , is just fantastic to drive, the brakes will match anything here and I have 14 years and $30,000 in building it.
The best part is I built every piece myself, understand it and will gladly share knowledge just for the fun of it, not for profit. I understand what it is to be on a budget but will try to keep costs down if anyone wants to try some of the modifications.
It was painted in the driveway and while this picture doesn't do it justice it is an overall shot.
I could post another just showing the paint but the picture is not overall.
Its not a slow car, that car has the potential to run 10s, I believe it ran very low 11s last time and the 940 is at the flywheel without the driveline loss and the 5 % DD2K loss. I dont know what the loss percentage is for a Tremec 5 speed but i believe the accepted figure for the mucnie 4 is 20%. so just going on that it only leaves him with 700 horses.
Battsup. Hydra boost brakes is a unit put on GM diesel trucks and vans. Diesel does not have vacuum so for power brakes they use hydraulic assistance from the power steering pump.
The hydra boost replaces the vacuum power assist with a small unit about the size of the master cylinder. It bolts to the firewall like the vacuum unit but is infinitely smaller and alot stronger. The power master cylinder then bolts to this unit.
3 lines are required. One from the power steering pump, one from the hydraboost to the power steering control valve and finally a return line.
The units are all through the 80's and 90's. The first unit I bought was from a 83 1/2 ton van and it was almost a direct bolt in. The second unit was from a 94 one ton dually. Same phyisical size just larger more powerful piston inside. Paid $50 Cdn. for that unit. The lines cost me about $100 to have custom made.
There is a company that took off with this a year ago and it sells complete units ready to install but for the budget minded it is simple to do your own.
The units are extremely compact and make alot more room around the valve cover.
The braking power is incredible and far superior to the vacuum assist units.
It is one of the best mods that I did to my car.
I have about $150 in the unit complete in the car.