whats easier?
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yeah thats what she!oooopppss all most slipped up there. you dont sound very convincing there B2B.:spanked:
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At the "other" place a guy posted pics of doing them as a unit, and it was an auto.
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I think there are a couple things that you have to think through when contemplating one method over another.
As B2B says, you have to have the car higher if you intend to pull the transmission with the engine. That impacts the engine hoist you select, as well as ensuring that the building you intend to use has sufficient height to accomodate that extra height.
Also, when the unit comes out, you'll probably dribble transmission fluid out of the rear transmission seal, unless you've already removed the driveshaft, and (assuming that you'll replace the u-joints while you're at it) removed the yoke from the shaft in order to plug up the tailshaft.
The transmission has to clear the body. It isn't fun when you lose track of where the tailshaft went, and while you're paying attention to the engine, the assembly rotates, and crashes into the car's body (don't forget that the body is moving up as the load is relieved by the assembly removal).
When the assembly is removed, what do you intend to do with it? How are you going to secure the unit while you're separating the engine from the transmission?
When I was doing this kind of thing on a routine basis, I preferred removing the transmission first, and then dealing with just the engine. I could get the tranny out, set it to the side, and concentrate on one 500 pound lump instead of a bolted together 600 pound lump. I would have the engine stand ready, and get the engine secured as soon as possible.
I don't think one method is inherently 'better' than the other - it kind of boils down to what you feel comfortable with. The biggest thing is to plan what you intend to do, and then do it.
There's no fun in getting the job half done and finding that you overlooked some detail, resulting in damage to the car, or damage to your body, and lost time as you regroup and start over!
Steven
As B2B says, you have to have the car higher if you intend to pull the transmission with the engine. That impacts the engine hoist you select, as well as ensuring that the building you intend to use has sufficient height to accomodate that extra height.
Also, when the unit comes out, you'll probably dribble transmission fluid out of the rear transmission seal, unless you've already removed the driveshaft, and (assuming that you'll replace the u-joints while you're at it) removed the yoke from the shaft in order to plug up the tailshaft.
The transmission has to clear the body. It isn't fun when you lose track of where the tailshaft went, and while you're paying attention to the engine, the assembly rotates, and crashes into the car's body (don't forget that the body is moving up as the load is relieved by the assembly removal).
When the assembly is removed, what do you intend to do with it? How are you going to secure the unit while you're separating the engine from the transmission?
When I was doing this kind of thing on a routine basis, I preferred removing the transmission first, and then dealing with just the engine. I could get the tranny out, set it to the side, and concentrate on one 500 pound lump instead of a bolted together 600 pound lump. I would have the engine stand ready, and get the engine secured as soon as possible.
I don't think one method is inherently 'better' than the other - it kind of boils down to what you feel comfortable with. The biggest thing is to plan what you intend to do, and then do it.
There's no fun in getting the job half done and finding that you overlooked some detail, resulting in damage to the car, or damage to your body, and lost time as you regroup and start over!
Steven
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well i have done several motor and tranny installs together,just never in a vette,and things look pretty close in there. the car is going to be up on stands front and rear,and i did plan on installing new u-joint's, replacing seals on tranny while i had it out. the motor is going on a stand and going to the side for a while,im going to put in a new motor.
think i will err on the side of caution and pull the tranny and then pull the motor, would sure hate to hit the windsheild or a fender while juggling it all out at once.
can anybody think of anything alse to check or replace while i have it all out,other than seals,u-joints,clutch,t-out and pilot brg's,and mounts.:thumbsup:
think i will err on the side of caution and pull the tranny and then pull the motor, would sure hate to hit the windsheild or a fender while juggling it all out at once.
can anybody think of anything alse to check or replace while i have it all out,other than seals,u-joints,clutch,t-out and pilot brg's,and mounts.:thumbsup:
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Cut a hole in your hood. Norvall might have a used blown BB for sale.:rolling:
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what and damge my 29 year old show room quality paint job :rolling: you might as well ask me to rotate my air cleaner and change the air in my spare.:rolling: :rolling: :thud:
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You might want to measure/inspect the drivetrain alignment prior to engine/transmission removal. There are a couple of threads on this topic here in the C3 section ...
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76795
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71377
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76922
Take lots of pictures of the 'before' condition!
Steven
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Steven. if a understand those threads correctly,those guys changed to diffrent motors and or trannys. im putting my tranny back in,although im not putting the original 350 back in,another 350 will be taking its place. will i still run into any problems with alignment :thud:
Kevin
Kevin
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Get yourself a "Load Leveler" at least that's what it is called at Harbor Freight.
Don't bother looking at their web site for it but they do indeed sell them at their
stores. I think they're in the $30ish range. Been awhile since I bought one.
It will allow you to tilt the engine considerably as you are removing it and then
level it back up with out having to disconnect the motor from the hoist.
I have to R & I engines quite-a-bit when replacing front frame rails and that
little devise is the ticket. :thumbsup:
Don't bother looking at their web site for it but they do indeed sell them at their
stores. I think they're in the $30ish range. Been awhile since I bought one.
It will allow you to tilt the engine considerably as you are removing it and then
level it back up with out having to disconnect the motor from the hoist.
I have to R & I engines quite-a-bit when replacing front frame rails and that
little devise is the ticket. :thumbsup:
Might be a good time to replace the positive battery cable. It's not easy to do with the trans in place.
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Truer words were never spoke.:thumbsup:
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Hi, Kevin -
Although I don't think you'll have a problem, you might want to post something on one of those threads to see what they recommend.
Steven
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I'm a newbie here and I am a little gun shy about posting because of what goes on at the other place. Hopefully this is not reundant info.
I had a thread over at the other place showing the motor and tranny coming out together.
I recently R & I a 350 with a th350. You will need to pull the radiator and core support to pull the together. As SMYDA stated, a load leveler is greatly recommended. Get the car up in the air to allow the tranny to drop down at an angle and put a juck under the tranny to drop it slowly. Make sure the tranny tail piece does not come off or you will be swimming in tranny fluid. Use the load leveler to adjust the angle as necessary while pulling the 2 units out of the car. I was able to put the cherry picker in over the right fender. You may have to lower the car when everything is free to swing the motor and tranny over the fender. It depends on how hight the car is initially and how high the hoist can go. My tranny was a th350 and it was easier to pull the flex plate cover and pull the 3 torque converter bolts while the motor and tranny were still in the car. After they were pulled, I set them on a floor dolly and blocked them so that I could roll them around the garage. I had built a new spare 350 for the car that I then attached to the original th350. when seperating the tranny make sure the torque conver stays in place or you will be swimming in tranny fluid again. Installation is basically the same in reverse. This was a very easy process when both the tranny and motor are coming out. You are just aware that there is a lot of weight.
I also just did a R/I where I pulled a 350 and replaced with a 383 that I built. This was attached to a th400. I did not remove the tranny for this. Pulling the motor only required pulling the fan and the distributor only. Well, ok power steering pump too. The motor comes straight up and out. the new motor went in easily with the exception of cussing alot while trying to stab the tranny.
You appear to be experienced at this so it should not be a problem. Sorry if this was long and if I got anything incorrect let me know. I left out some details so if there are questions please ask. IMHO, manuals should come out with the motor.
Chris
Not sure about adding pics but I wil give it a try.
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I had a thread over at the other place showing the motor and tranny coming out together.
I recently R & I a 350 with a th350. You will need to pull the radiator and core support to pull the together. As SMYDA stated, a load leveler is greatly recommended. Get the car up in the air to allow the tranny to drop down at an angle and put a juck under the tranny to drop it slowly. Make sure the tranny tail piece does not come off or you will be swimming in tranny fluid. Use the load leveler to adjust the angle as necessary while pulling the 2 units out of the car. I was able to put the cherry picker in over the right fender. You may have to lower the car when everything is free to swing the motor and tranny over the fender. It depends on how hight the car is initially and how high the hoist can go. My tranny was a th350 and it was easier to pull the flex plate cover and pull the 3 torque converter bolts while the motor and tranny were still in the car. After they were pulled, I set them on a floor dolly and blocked them so that I could roll them around the garage. I had built a new spare 350 for the car that I then attached to the original th350. when seperating the tranny make sure the torque conver stays in place or you will be swimming in tranny fluid again. Installation is basically the same in reverse. This was a very easy process when both the tranny and motor are coming out. You are just aware that there is a lot of weight.
I also just did a R/I where I pulled a 350 and replaced with a 383 that I built. This was attached to a th400. I did not remove the tranny for this. Pulling the motor only required pulling the fan and the distributor only. Well, ok power steering pump too. The motor comes straight up and out. the new motor went in easily with the exception of cussing alot while trying to stab the tranny.
You appear to be experienced at this so it should not be a problem. Sorry if this was long and if I got anything incorrect let me know. I left out some details so if there are questions please ask. IMHO, manuals should come out with the motor.
Chris
Not sure about adding pics but I wil give it a try.
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nice pics AttackVette. looks like a tight fit but it went. i would think also with a manual trans that it should be easier. I dont know I will have to survey the situation when the time comes.
I agree a load leveler is well worth the money. Replace the pos bat cable thats a good idea did not think of that one,this would certainly be the time to replace it.
thanks for all the info guy's. I will be sure to call all of you when its time to tackle this so you can come over and help :smack just kidd'n:rolling: .
Kevin
I agree a load leveler is well worth the money. Replace the pos bat cable thats a good idea did not think of that one,this would certainly be the time to replace it.
thanks for all the info guy's. I will be sure to call all of you when its time to tackle this so you can come over and help :smack just kidd'n:rolling: .
Kevin
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3,855 Posts
Think what you want...but....I have a hoist enough to take a 350 chebby complete with all induction/exhaust, yes MARINE headers out of a Chapparal 21' boat on trailer...up andover the transom intact....the whold kanuna...
so height is not the difficulty...it's the logistics....having done this crap over and over and over yet a freeking GAIN....I can say with relative security in MY opinion....slide the damn tranny under there, floor jack it into position rearward, then slip the engine in there....this is true from Vette to olde tyme B body Bonneville outta decades ago....and furthermore...
when using a chain over the engine diagonally, and you can't find a link what works to balance the ass end down enough and be easy to slip into position, you dunno WTF you are doing....
hate being crass about it, but them's the fact over some 45? years of hotrodding....BTDT....and I have shown some commercial riggers how to do this over the years too...it's really not all that hard....just a sense of how to balance an engine/load and how much your capabilities to push it into position...
but of course having a decent rig, not some damn cheeeeeeep **** from nowhereville does help....
not that nowhereville builds ALL crap, just that you need pick and choose the BIGGEST rig around.....that's what SHE said anyway....
:thumbsup: :laughing: :WTF :cheers:
so height is not the difficulty...it's the logistics....having done this crap over and over and over yet a freeking GAIN....I can say with relative security in MY opinion....slide the damn tranny under there, floor jack it into position rearward, then slip the engine in there....this is true from Vette to olde tyme B body Bonneville outta decades ago....and furthermore...
when using a chain over the engine diagonally, and you can't find a link what works to balance the ass end down enough and be easy to slip into position, you dunno WTF you are doing....
hate being crass about it, but them's the fact over some 45? years of hotrodding....BTDT....and I have shown some commercial riggers how to do this over the years too...it's really not all that hard....just a sense of how to balance an engine/load and how much your capabilities to push it into position...
but of course having a decent rig, not some damn cheeeeeeep **** from nowhereville does help....
not that nowhereville builds ALL crap, just that you need pick and choose the BIGGEST rig around.....that's what SHE said anyway....
:thumbsup: :laughing: :WTF :cheers:
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