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Discussion Starter #1
Having a hard time, (must not be Googling properly for some reason) finding some poly trailing arm bushing kits. I've seen a few pix on this forum related to TA discussions, but can't seem to find too many out on the net. Anybody have any recommendations, links, etc?

I have access to a press, but it looks like some of the aftermarket kits I have seen have a "tool". Any expereince with these vs. stock rubber install?

Also, is it worth $45 for a stainless hardware kit (bolt, washeres, castle nut & cotter pin), rather than under $10 for a stock setup? What about the strength differential between stainless and grade 8? Would some anti-sieze prevent a stock set-up from rust welding in the future?
 

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Having a hard time, (must not be Googling properly for some reason) finding some poly trailing arm bushing kits. I've seen a few pix on this forum related to TA discussions, but can't seem to find too many out on the net. Anybody have any recommendations, links, etc?

I have access to a press, but it looks like some of the aftermarket kits I have seen have a "tool". Any expereince with these vs. stock rubber install?

Also, is it worth $45 for a stainless hardware kit (bolt, washeres, castle nut & cotter pin), rather than under $10 for a stock setup? What about the strength differential between stainless and grade 8? Would some anti-sieze prevent a stock set-up from rust welding in the future?
Have you looked at http://www.ecklers.com/ or http://www.zip-corvette.com/Default.aspx? Put in your search term like "trailing arm bushing" and you'll surely find some.

Here's a poly kit: http://www.ecklers.com/corvette-trailing-arm-bushing-kit-with-outer-sleeves-front-polyurethane-1963-1982.html

Jeff
 

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hardware first: I went with SS because of the horror stories of rusted shims and pivot bolts that you guys are all too familiar with.

Bushings: I have heard negative things about poly trailing arm bushings. Poly bushings are great for pivoting applications and will reduce deflection which is a good thing. However, the front bushings of the trailing arm need to rotate AND twist as the rear wheel camber changes. There is some potential for binding where rubber allows enough flex to prevent it.

I have no first-hand experience with that, just wanted to put the info out there and let you make the decision. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hardware first: I went with SS because of the horror stories of rusted shims and pivot bolts that you guys are all too familiar with.

Bushings: I have heard negative things about poly trailing arm bushings. Poly bushings are great for pivoting applications and will reduce deflection which is a good thing. However, the front bushings of the trailing arm need to rotate AND twist as the rear wheel camber changes. There is some potential for binding where rubber allows enough flex to prevent it.

I have no first-hand experience with that, just wanted to put the info out there and let you make the decision. :thumbsup:
Yeah, I've heard about the "lack-o-twist" with the polys, plus per Giovanni's research, there is no difference in handling between rubber and poly.

Guess I'll save myself some cash and go with rubber, I was just thinking that the poly would last longer, but what's the point if they cause binding.:WTF

But wait! I'm building a 6-link and there shouldn't be any twisting...hmmm. Have to think about this some more...maybe poly would be better with a 6-link setup.:huh:
 

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Check VB&P They have all kinds of C3 supention parts...Thats where I got all of mine. Great people.
 

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hardware first: I went with SS because of the horror stories of rusted shims and pivot bolts that you guys are all too familiar with.

Bushings: I have heard negative things about poly trailing arm bushings. Poly bushings are great for pivoting applications and will reduce deflection which is a good thing. However, the front bushings of the trailing arm need to rotate AND twist as the rear wheel camber changes. There is some potential for binding where rubber allows enough flex to prevent it.
Yeah I wouldn't mess with anything other SS shims. If you run your vette in the rain, the tire throws water directly in that channel where the shims sit. Rust just loves that.

Good point about the poly bushing on the TA. I'll have to keep that in mind. Do a lot of guys run poly on these? How about elsewhere like sway bars and such? I was curious if there was some kind of guide as to poly bushing might be best for these X components while rubber for the other Y components.
 

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Yeah I wouldn't mess with anything other SS shims. If you run your vette in the rain, the tire throws water directly in that channel where the shims sit. Rust just loves that.

Good point about the poly bushing on the TA. I'll have to keep that in mind. Do a lot of guys run poly on these? How about elsewhere like sway bars and such? I was curious if there was some kind of guide as to poly bushing might be best for these X components while rubber for the other Y components.
poly should be good for virtually all other bushings on our C3's with the possible exception of the strut rods.
 

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GTR1999 told me rubber is the way to go and I got mine from GM. If you go rubber I'll shoot you the GM number so your dealer can order them. Mine cost me around $12 from the dealer but he cut me a deal so I think they cost $16 per one without the deal.
 

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VB&P all the way they have great products, I would go with poly bushings and SS shims for sure
 

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Alternative to Both RUBBER & POLY!

I didn't want Rubber - and rather than opt for POLY - I went with Johnny Joints!
If you're not familiar - they are spherical joints, lubed - and "Strong As!"
Here is a phrase you can use to "Google" to get to the necessary links - (I don't want to violate any rules and get banned!):WTF

try this on GOOGLE/BING: "Trailing arms: Johnny Joint install -pics"

I found in my install I needed longer bolts and got them from a jeep/off road outfit. The pics on the other site are pretty self explanatory.
And, yes. I used Stainless Steel Shims.

Cheers - Jim
 

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I read all the opinions on the rubber/poly debate, saw what all the recommendations were/are, and then went with the poly. I even moved the T/A's thru the full motion and looked at what was happening.
My reasoning was that I'll never have to change them again.

I went with all the SS hardware too- and coated the bolts with nickle anti-seize like I was putting butter on an ear of corn.
:D
 

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Having a hard time, (must not be Googling properly for some reason) finding some poly trailing arm bushing kits. I've seen a few pix on this forum related to TA discussions, but can't seem to find too many out on the net. Anybody have any recommendations, links, etc?

I have access to a press, but it looks like some of the aftermarket kits I have seen have a "tool". Any expereince with these vs. stock rubber install?

Also, is it worth $45 for a stainless hardware kit (bolt, washeres, castle nut & cotter pin), rather than under $10 for a stock setup? What about the strength differential between stainless and grade 8? Would some anti-sieze prevent a stock set-up from rust welding in the future?
I have a set of red ones I won't be using
 

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Discussion Starter #17
best of both worlds :thumbsup:
Okay, anybody who's used Johnny Joints have a part number, or specification for which one you used? (It'll save me some research time, thank you ahead of time).:thumbsup:

EDIT: Was it the 2" Johnny Joint? And how do these install, just pressed into the arm? Price seems do-able.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #19

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Maybe easier - but a spherical joint will be superior.

Its a question of mechanics - a movable joint or -- a material (rubber/poly that is deflected many times (and self destructs over time - changing its mechanical properties).

You've found Twin Turbo's site and there are more than a few members there that have done the conversion -- Including me - FWIW.

Cheers - Jim
 
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