jeebus man, all I use is a piece of universal wire hose, the flex type....for ten bux or less, I tiewrap it to the rear of the cross support bracket to keep it off my serp drive tensioner...but it flexes enough to hit the radiator output....
When I replaced all the hoses a few years back, I bought repro's. The lower hose came with the spring. If I recall it wasn't that expensive. My engine bay is stock with the exception of a dewitts DF aluminum rad.
Wait nevermind they are like 70 dollarsWow, $150, are you kidding me? Thats F'ing ridiculous! Are you saying I can get a similar product on ebay, or do I have to buy through Summit or Jegs? I was thinking more in the $40-$50 range. Thanx for the info bro.
To the water pressure guageIf you have a real parts store cross a 3970124 GM/Corvette upper hose that should work, cut it and turn it 180* about 9"-10" away from the t-stat housing have someone tig a 1-1/2" short piece of aluminum tubing to hold the clamps from slipping off and get rid of the bubba thermostat housing you should have a nice functional clean upper rad hose.....now if I could only figure out what`s on the top of your water pump and where it goes.
Seeing as you have the alt on the same bet as the h20 pump wouldn't the volt meter tell you the same info? If you don't believe it you can cross reference with the water temp gauge....Nope
Some guy that races told us to run it. I also have a light. It helps you know if you know if you throw a belt.
I guess I don't really need but it did help me find that my lower radiator hose was collapsing.
:thumbsup: This is the right way. Exhaust pipe is roll welded steel made from scrap metal like EMT. It will rust thru in a year.buy a hose with a spring in it or use only the rubber elbows and have someone who can tig make you an aluminum piece to go between the elbows.....