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is there a differance in some Xpipes compared to others? looks like im not going to have the funds for headers so it its just going to be xpipe and B&B Bullets.
 

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I got a universal x pipe off of ebay for 40 bucks....i cut out the h pipe and welded it in...car ran smoother and sounded much better.
 

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I got a universal x pipe off of ebay for 40 bucks....i cut out the h pipe and welded it in...car ran smoother and sounded much better.
In fact here is pretty much what I bought

V=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GP-Universal-Crossover-X-pipe-Aluminized-2-5-diameter-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588e22de50QQitemZ380341771856QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Piping is the same between an h pipe and an x pipe the difference is the shape of the cross over. An x pipe collects in the center . The h pipe collects on the single cross over pipe. On the stock H pipe the center of the H is only a 1 inch hole even though the pipe is 2.5 inches thick. Thats why you pick up much better tones with x pipes and a little more power because the back pressure is more even between banks under a load.
 

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PUtting a true X-pipe back in the ass end where a H is does nothing more but change the sound

A proper X-pipe is close to the exhaust manifold ( i.e, collector) as the X-pipe helps create exhaust pulses which extracts ALL the exhaust out of cylinder so the next firing cycle has free air/fuel

Also most "canned" X-pipes are not designed correctly as the center point of X should equal the total pipe diameter so if 2 1/2" pips the center of X should be at least 5" sp no restriction of flow.
 

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PUtting a true X-pipe back in the ass end where a H is does nothing more but change the sound

A proper X-pipe is close to the exhaust manifold ( i.e, collector) as the X-pipe helps create exhaust pulses which extracts ALL the exhaust out of cylinder so the next firing cycle has free air/fuel

Also most "canned" X-pipes are not designed correctly as the center point of X should equal the total pipe diameter so if 2 1/2" pips the center of X should be at least 5" sp no restriction of flow.
Is there anything you don't know about Corvettes? :thud: :thumbsup:
 

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PUtting a true X-pipe back in the ass end where a H is does nothing more but change the sound

A proper X-pipe is close to the exhaust manifold ( i.e, collector) as the X-pipe helps create exhaust pulses which extracts ALL the exhaust out of cylinder so the next firing cycle has free air/fuel

Also most "canned" X-pipes are not designed correctly as the center point of X should equal the total pipe diameter so if 2 1/2" pips the center of X should be at least 5" sp no restriction of flow.
Would you be able to identify which manufacturer makes a true x-pipe?
 

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Would you be able to identify which manufacturer makes a true x-pipe?
If X pipe was designed correctly it would not be very narrow in width to fit in the 8 inch wide space of drivetube area

Good one comes off the collectors about where stock CATs are which is close to bell housing, before the drivetube area so there is more width there for full X with the center point being as long/large as both pipe diameters

Look at the C6 ZR1 or GS, you notice X pipe is up front but it is not as wide at center as I'd want but is better then the sound only X-pipe that vendors sell for back end of mid pipes.

Surely do not want 2 2 1/2 inch ( 5" total) pipes reduced down to center of X that is only 3 inches to reduce flow and increase backpressure

It can be done right and even I using 3" pipe X will fit by collector.
 

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If X pipe was designed correctly it would not be very narrow in width to fit in the 8 inch wide space of drivetube area

Good one comes off the collectors about where stock CATs are which is close to bell housing, before the drivetube area so there is more width there for full X with the center point being as long/large as both pipe diameters

Look at the C6 ZR1 or GS, you notice X pipe is up front but it is not as wide at center as I'd want but is better then the sound only X-pipe that vendors sell for back end of mid pipes.

Surely do not want 2 2 1/2 inch ( 5" total) pipes reduced down to center of X that is only 3 inches to reduce flow and increase backpressure

It can be done right and even I using 3" pipe X will fit by collector.
If I did my math correctly, a 3.5" diameter pipe would have the same approximate area as two 2.5" diameter pipes. So as long as the cross-section at the X is at least the equivalent area of 3.5" diameter, then that should work.
 

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Do not forget that the larger the pipe is the more radius is needed so to get non restricted flow the center must be longer

 

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In fact here is pretty much what I bought

V=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GP-Universal-Crossover-X-pipe-Aluminized-2-5-diameter-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588e22de50QQitemZ380341771856QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Piping is the same between an h pipe and an x pipe the difference is the shape of the cross over. An x pipe collects in the center . The h pipe collects on the single cross over pipe. On the stock H pipe the center of the H is only a 1 inch hole even though the pipe is 2.5 inches thick. Thats why you pick up much better tones with x pipes and a little more power because the back pressure is more even between banks under a load.
The man knows......:partyon:
 
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