as always, good stuff Gary. I went ahead and stuck it for you. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks Jason! :thumbsup:

You beat me to it! :cheers:

 

That was fast:laughing:

 

Excellent as usual Gary. Your posts are very informative.

 

These are the type of posts that helped me go through my rearend last rear. Great job, Gary - nicely detailed and very informative. :thumbsup:

 

3 MINUTES

Got to be a record for the FASTEST sticky!!:laughing:

 

we don't dick around here at DC

 

For anyone changing the seal in the car I find it almost impossible to drive the new seal into place in the tight confinements of the drive shaft tunnel.
After a flustrating attempt I made a in car seal replacement tool.
As you can see I used a piece of exhuast pipe adapter and cut it down so it fit perfectly inside the lip of the seal. I welded a plate to the top of this adapter and then welded a 2 foot length of pipe to this plate.
I can install a seal in a few minutes without the flustration of starting the seal and trying to tap around it's perimeter.
Just hold the seal in place, install the tool and a few hits with a big hammer drive it into place effortlessly.
I have loaned this tool out to a few guys doing this change and they all find it extremely easy.

 

For anyone changing the seal in the car I find it almost impossible to drive the new seal into place in the tight confinements of the drive shaft tunnel.
After a flustrating attempt I made a in car seal replacement tool.
As you can see I used a piece of exhuast pipe adapter and cut it down so it fit perfectly inside the lip of the seal. I welded a plate to the top of this adapter and then welded a 2 foot length of pipe to this plate.
I can install a seal in a few minutes without the flustration of starting the seal and trying to tap around it's perimeter.
Just hold the seal in place, install the tool and a few hits with a big hammer drive it into place effortlessly.
I have loaned this tool out to a few guys doing this change and they all find it extremely easy.

If I dont have access to a welder can anyone think of a similar tool? Im not familiar enough with the job to know what will work and what wont.

 

Very good work as usual Gary. I know mine is leaking and needs replacement. I guess I will get after this one this winter. When I pull my yoke if it is sealed with sealer like you mention, what it the best way to clean the yokes splines to get the old sealer out?

 

Eddie,
I use a scribe that Sears sells. It is long and one end has 90* tip. Workg great to scrape the old junk out- if there is any. A smal wire wheel works good too.

 

Gary,
Thanks for providing me this info. Exactly what I needed.
For clarity's sake, once I install the seal do I just run the nut back down until I get to my original pre-disassembly torque reading?
Again, thank you so much for providing us with the technical write-ups!
Much appreciated

 

Great article, great pictures! :thumbsup:

Now all I need is my own garage to work in....

 

I think what we all NEED to do is move to CT...maybe we can apprentice for Gary.
redvetracr

 

If you are doing the job on the car then I think the best you're going to get is back to the witness mark you made. If off the car like this one then I go back rotational drag with my in/lb TW. Used bearings should be about 5 in/lbs.
If you do have it out of the car pull the cover and check the other things as well.

Howard,
You don't want to move here, a little state between NY & Boston and one of the most expensive places to live. Cost of living is too high here and the mfg jobs are just about gone. I'm going the way of a trolley car mechanic!!!!~obsolete. :laughing:

 

Gary...did you say 5in/lbs for used bearings? That sounds kinda loose....forgive me master for I do not know what I speak of:laughing:

 

Yeah, used bearings will be about 5-7 in/lbs. New 15-18 untilthey seat.

 

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Good info Gary, thanks. :thumbsup:

 

Note
I just checked NAPA and they still stock these seals for $15 each, I can still sell my stock for the $12 quoted if anyone can't find them. They really shouldn't be hard to find unless they obsolete them.

 

Hey Tom,
Yeah, I can just see me working with a horse in NY!:laughing:

 

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Thanks for the update,Gary.:cheers:
So the New lubes they are selling has something in them that breaks down the RTV?
Interesting...Not that it matters but do you happen to know what it is in these new lubes that is causing the RTV to deteriorate???

 

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I've also had problems with the combination of Synthetics and Permatex #2 and several other high quallity sealants.

 

noise at the rear

gary can u or someone help,just replace pinion seal 80 vett,forgot to mark the yoke,now theres a noise in the back that wasnt there before,nt sure how tight to put the nut

 

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Wow...what a learning curve.
Bravo to Gary, for his time and patients given! :thumbsup:

 

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This is what I now use on the pinion yoke to pinion splines to seal them. I like it better then the old #2 sealant. It is not common to find it though.

Figures, for my yoke splines I just purchased a tube of #2 :bang
BTW, ran all over town looking at Pinion seals for my 81 Made by CR/SKF and Timken,(made by 'National) and a boxed National seal.
My oe/GM pinion seal is stamped 'National' and is beefy & built like a tank but that build style is no longer offered...the current offerings from SKF, Timken, National all are thinner metal, stamped different and cheep feeling.

The 'National' seal from Advance Auto ($11.00) was the only one clearly marked (on the box) "Made in USA" that's the one I purchased.

For what it's worth...Auto Zone carries two types, Timken/National Pinion seals, both the same style but the $39.00 seal is 'viton' and the $11.00 seal like the one offered by SKF and National is Nitrile.

 

So did anyone find this in a local parts store? I had to order from a distributor.