My only comment is....my '72 OEM printing chebby shop manual for the car line gold and red on page 2-7 frame section shows the vette frame with the exact same as your measures....for your '69....except the front most measure as 14 and 3/8, and the rear most at 23 and 1/2 to the ground....

the rear seems a bit changed, but the front is well within tolerance, I would say...the specs on the plat/layout from on top are the same....

the other elevations are identical....

I have measured my car to those specs listed in my manual...my front is 1.5 inches lo, and the rear is stock height....

:lookinup: should I jack up the rear???

 

:laughing:


As I stated earlier......use this as a guide and not a Blueprint.

Even with the $20,000 Computerized / Laser systems we use today
there are still errors. The most common ones I run into are with "Datum".
I will pull a car to the specs the computer gives me....then I double check
by hanging sheet metal. If the two methods conflict......the sheet metal
always has final-say-so.

If measurements are equal from side to side........meaning one frame horn
is not higher or lower than the other and body gaps are good....leave it alone.

 

Many thanks for posting these images. I've been looking for this sort of thing for years without any luck until now.

I don't need them in the need-to-fix-my-mangled-frame sense, but this is the kind of data I routinely squirrel away for safekeeping.

Good stuff.

 

Good stuff.

:agree:

Good post! :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info! :cheers:

I also "stuck" it for ya!

 

Just a note to those that may not be aware of this.............

If you have a GM shop manual for your given model year this info "should" be in it.
How detailed it will be I can not say............note the '69 example from
a GM manual does not show lower ball joint specs. Where as the Tru-Way
specs do. (They are not shown in my '81 GM manual either.)

Also note that starting in 81 Tru-Way also gave the measurements in Millimeters
as well as Inches.

 

ooooh, very cool. So now in 7 years when I go to have a tube frame made up I'll know where to line up all the body mounts and whatnot. I like it. artyon:

 

Awesome! I need these to fix my mangled frame kind of mess

 

Better send for your FREE GM restoration package.

 

only $29995 postage and handling :rolling:

 

good thread :thumbsup:

 

C3 Frame Replacement

Any idea how hard to replace 79 frame with 1980? My frame is damaged and I found a good rolling chassis from a 1980 at a good price.

 

The '80 model has the bat wing rear end set up were the '79 does not.....
other than that it shouldn't be any big deal.

 

So do you think will be some cutting or welding involved in a 79 to 82 frame swap?

I have a 82 with a damaged frame a and found a 79 that I could buy for parts.....will everything be a bolt in deal? It looks like there is some differences in the front horns according to the drawings.

 

Regarding the '69 frame/drawing, has anyone ever seen any official measurements of the engine mount offset (to the right), and also are the slots in the trans crossmember offset to the right by the same amount as the motor mount horns?

thanks,
Mike

 

hi to all my name is thomas. first thanks for the pics are very good.. i´m studing how to modify a c3 structure....so normal chassis structure how much are strong, you know what´s the limit... maybe a 509 merlin block with 9.5 compression a good th400 and a low traction rear end gear maybe a 3,08 or 3,36....with 550 horsepower and no more than 500 lbs. of torque.... that is a good combination i think to take your vette to the limit , or not? can i put the limit lane more higher without flex or crash my vette structure....?:surprised

thanks to all for your help

 

I had the frame sand blasted then rewelded the seams in places where the factory welds looked weak. There are other things that can be done like welding up the larger holes in the frame but I chose not to do that and leave the frame as-is.
I did cut the middle transmission brace (with the 2 holes for the exhaust) and made a custom removable unit out of 2"x2" x3/8 steel tubing. Richmond 5 spd now fits perfect and plenty of room for any type of exhaust.
In 69, 2 rear braces were added, making the frame stronger.
How strong is the frame, that's a good question. Don't know. Will be running a 540.
Ed

 

Those are Great - and Thanks for posting.
I'm in the midst of a "Frame-Off on my one owner 78", and have all the pieces and parts dissambled, stowed away, etc.
Wonder if anyone has the dimensions I'm looking for in the following image:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1800&stc=1&d=1307132866

Specifically I could use D, d1, and d2. I;m working a splitter/airbox design and wont't be using the other bits.
D is the overall from the leading edge of the main frame member beneath the engine - to the point of the nose ; d1 is the point of the nose back to the trailing edge of the Cylinder (vacuum res); and, d2 is that edge to the LE of the main frame member.

Thanks heaps!
Cheers - Jim

 

Can you use a 1976 frame on a 1973 vette ?

 

You may want to start a new thread.
I'm sure someone will have an answer for you.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Supposedly the original frame weighed 300 pounds, I don't know if this is accurate information or not.
Ed