check the batery 1st......have it tested without the car running....

 

Thanks, Rick...

I'll take it somewheres and get the battery tested. I bought htis Delco brand new about 2-3 months ago unless there is something draining it...? I just looked at the display and it read 12.1 Volts while the car wasn't started. I dunno, man. I'll just have to do some diagnostic work and see...I can't stomach the idea of my Vette not starting in the middle of nowhere:down:

 

Pull the codes and see/post what's in the history.Theres a list of how to pull codes etc in the tunning section.
I had a battery going dead that would make my car do all sorts of weird things,still had the green dot on the battery and showed 12 or more volts,but dropped to low over night on the normal battery drain.I put in a red top and alls been fine for 3 years now.

 

You need to pull codes before yanking the battery out, or else they all go away....

Codes will tell us more. if you can get them and post them, it will help trouble shoot.

If it cranks, then I doubt it's the battery. gotta check the basics, make sure you have fuel pressure, and spark.

I doubt it's the injectors. they fail one at a time. You have a problem that's affecting all 8, so it's more likely clogged fuel line, or bad fuel pump.

 

Might even have one of the batteries that self destruct, get the codes then do a thorough inspection of the battery for leakage. Check the tray and below.

 

I'll bet it is the battery. When they go, they just GO....

I lost my OEM AC Delco AGM unexpectedly. Started fine one day, drove the car 50 miles, shut it off, and next start, nothing....

 

Check wires for loose and/or corroded/rusty connections especially at the battery and starter. Check the ground too. Any one of these can cause problems starting the vette. Also check the battery amperage. You may have enough voltage but without enough amperage you're not going anywhere fast.

 

Mine did that

My 04 Z did something similar when I went to pick it up at a dealership.
Started, went dead, hard to start, finally fired and went dead again. Service rep walked over and said turn key off and take it out of ignition swithch, wait 10 seconds and try again. It worked and my girl started as usual again. Havn't had any more episodes like that. Nothing to do with the battery. I should have asked why but didn't. If the starter motor isn't turning over slowly and the lights aren't almost going out when you try to start her, then chances are it isn't the battery.
Dandy

 

I'm gonna learn to pull...

the codes and then I'll get back to you guys with what I find...It did it again tonight...Started up for a couple of sec and went dead...next it started just fine. Later on tonight it started just fine on the first try...I may have to take her to the Corvette house... I wish I were a gearhead whereas I could do it myself, but chnaging starters and fuel pumps, etc...Not my area, unfortunately and I am not ashamed to admit it...Can't be good at everything. At any rate, I am very appreciative of all of you guys input...I'll get back to you this weekend when I am not working my a$$ off...For the record I no longer think it is the battery as I purchased this battery about 2 mo. ago...besides there are no others signs of electrical failure...Looks like I'm gonna be doing a project this weekend..."Learn to pull codes"

 

Puuling codes...

I'm gonna follow the instructions below...I suppose since y car is not starting I should look for the code, "PCM" for powertrain, correct?

1) Turn your ignition on. The engine doesn't have to be running, but it's ok if it is...

2) Press reset to clear any warning messages
3) Press and hold the "options" button
4) Press the "fuel" button 4 times while holding the options button down. The car will enter manual diagnostics and start displaying all the codes that are set for every control module in the car.

The diagnostic codes will flash across the screen in the following categories:

PCM - Poweretrain
TCS- Traction control and ABS
RTD- Real Time dampening
BCM- Body Control Module
IPC- Instrument Panel Cluster
Radio- Duh
HVAC- Heating, ventilation and A/C
LDCM- Left Door Control module
RDCM- Right Dorr control module
SCM- Seat control module
RFA- Remote function actuation

"C" after the code denotes that it is within the current ignition cycle.

"H" means it has occured in previous ignition cycles, but not the current one.

 

Those are the right instructions. Write down all the PCM codes, and post them back here

 

ALRIGHT, here are the codes...

OK, Today the car started and then went dead immediately AGAIN. On the second attempt it turned over, but didn't ignite. I waited a few seconds and it finally started. I made a 10 minute stop at Auto zone and when I came out it started immediately. I don't know what the hell is going on but here are the codes I pulled. FYI, the only mod on the car is a stereo system headunit, amp, woofer...Nothing else.

10-PCM-NO CODES
28-TCS-NO CODES
40-BCM-5 CODES
-BO432 H
-B2578 H
-B2583 H
-B2587 H
-B2592 H
58-SDM-NO CODES
60-IPC-2 CODES
-BO521 H
-U1160 H
80-RADIO-"NO COMM."
AO-LDCM-3 CODES
-B2282 H
-B2284 H
-U1064 H
A1-RDCM-3 CODES
-B2283 H
-B2287 H
-B2285 H
BO-RFA-4 CODES
-U1096 H
-U1064 H
-U1016 H
-C2120 H C

 

Prob. the battary, or alternator? I had the same problem and it was both... :drink:

 

Good thinking, Diddy...

Hmm...I never thought about the alternator...I am wondering if it is the alternator or the fuel pump or filter...I am thinking I am just going ot have to take it to a Vette guy here in Texas and pray that it isn't anything expensive. The car has started everytime ince i last posted although it does seem to drag a little when I turn the key...THEN she ignites. You know...kinda turns over a few times and then starts as opposed to just starting right up.

 

Replace the battery.

 

replaced the delco witha 75 mo. Interstate...took three times to start today...:lookinup:

 

??? what about the v a t s key chip

 

interesting MOD...

a buddy of mine tells me that this may be due to the Idle Air Control or an IAG...this apparatus or some solenoid gets clogged with particulates...He in formed me to lift the right fuel rail cover and there was a black tube leading from the head to the throttle body...he told me to take out the hose and cover the remaining male ends (on the block and throttle body) with vaccum caps?

He says that the smoke travelling thru this hose can cause clogging of this IAG at timmes...also dependent upon the weather it can "trick" the car i n to responding to a type oof weather than may not actually be present tat the time..

anybody hrt of these vaccum caps or this modification?

 

problems...

If someone who knows about this could please let me know what you think when you get some time. The input would be greatly appreciated. I am just basically going thru replacing different things, trying different things in order too rectify this problem...sometimes it just takes a couuple of times to get the car started!

The last thing I tried is to remove the hose in the post prior to (just above) this one. However, someone at ls1tech.com tells me that this is not helpful...i'd rather get input for DC as this is the only forum that I actually consider myself a "member"...alright, if someone gets a chance drop me your thoughts, suggestions, advice, etc. as it's alwayys well received and much appreciated.

thanks in advance

TEXAS

 

My Z did the same thing this afternoon.

Was driving around, stopped for 30 minutes, came out, started it up, it caught instantly as it has a hundred other times, but then died instantly. But, started perfectly the second time... although I probably fiddled with the clutch pedal and shifter for a quick check before start #2.

I'm gonna have to think about it. Starting a car is such an unconcious thing. But no doubt it shouldn't have happened. I immediately thought, "oh... that isn't good".

:huh:

 

this is just my exp the baterywent then the altinator then the computer needed replacement but i was lucky there 20.00 dollars labor /200.00for the
computer

it was a run of electrical symtoms thousands of miles now
no reacurances good luck cosmo

 

have a fuel pressure gague put on the fuel rail and see if you have full pressure when you try and start the car after it sets. if low or no pressure is showing the check valve is bad in the fuel system. some years it is in the pump and some years it is in the fuel filter

 

Good day DC family...

on the first try??? Last night, I turned the key and it turned over (for a whwile longer than it normally would), started up, but immediately went dead. :surprised It did this twice before it finally started.

I am in shock...I am wondering what in the hell is wrong with my car. I went and picked up some Lucas Fuel Treatment and Lucas Octane Booster in hopes of cleaning and lubricating the fuel injectors. I just changed the oil a week ago, so it has been running smoothly...After adding these two Lucas products it definitely runs even smoother, however I am curious as to why the car did not start yesterday?

I don't know where to start, guys. And, no, I do not have the warranty intact any longer. Any useful advice is greatly appreciated, fellas.

Best,
JMH

I just purchased a brand new WIX fuel filter. Could this possibly rectify my problem. It is not the battery or the alternator, I think. Could it be a bad fuel filter? I filled up with bad gas last week by accident and it actually got a little worse if that helps form a diagnostic standpoint.

Perhaps, the junk (particulates, lead deposits, etc) in the dirty gas has ruined my filter? I had a similar problem like thi on a Dodge Avenger after using bad gas and I changed the fuel filter and problem solved!

So, fuel filter...yay or nay? I do know that engine performance can be reduced by a dirty or clogged fuel filter. Recommended change intervals are every 12 months or 10,000 miles.

 

how do you know you filled up with "bad dirty" gas?

 

Easy...

how do you know you filled up with "bad dirty" gas?

how do you know you filled up with "bad dirty" gas?

I was filling up and had three strangers come over gawking at the car, oohing and ahhing, asking me questions, etc...Long story shortened I was distracted and put some 87 octane in my tank. I did not fill her up, but I put enough in there. As soon as I left I could feel the difference quite easily. I fixed this problem by running Lucas gas treatment, Lucas Octane Boost, & Lucas Fuel System Cleaner thru this tank and driviing it out of there asap, while toping the tank off with 94 octane every 1/4 of a tank.

Regardless the "hard starts" occurred before this incident at the gas station. Also, I used to only use Shell gas. Well, in 2004 Shell had several stations shut down nationwide due to high levels of sulfur (and other junk) in their gas. all of the sudden my Avenger would not start on the first attempt and/or would drag when I turned the key for ignition.....I stopped using Shell, switched the filter, and the problem went away.