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water pump removal 95 coupe

2.3K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  6StringFling  
#1 ·
OK well, after fighting with the front brake rattle all week, I finally saw a link someone here posted showing the "anti rattle" clips...(a sanity saver!) WOW!! I didnt know THAT was what they he** they were for when I opened the box of new pads, (they werent there when I took the old pads off), anyway, after the feeling of satisfaction of solving that issue, however short lived, and a successful test drive I pull in the garage to smoke/steam under the hood....NOW its the water pump...sigh.....so I followed my offcial GM manual and got to the point that all the bolts are out of the water pump and all the extraneous crap out of the way, but the water pump wont budge!! Is there a trick to getting this little PITA off? The manual basically says remove the bolts, and remove water pump......any help or anyones previous experience with this model year would be GREATLY appreciated!:WTF
 
#3 ·
Yes,make sure you pull it out straight. If you get mad like me and wiggle it around and pull on it at an angle you will damage it. I would go with a Mezeire electric pump,but most people like the gear driven pump so I would go with a GM if you go back with the shitty cam driven one.
 
#4 ·
Your 95 LT1 WP has 6 bolts in total, and they ALL need to be removed before the pump will budge......a couple are hard to see....One is almost hidden behind the large pully on the drivers side, and can be accessed through the pullys hole(turn it to line it up).......once all 6 bolts are out,(if it's not loose already) hit the pump with a mallet or your palm to break it's seal, and she'll come right off(straight forward off it's dowel pins)......no gears or anything to worry about comming loose or anything.......the spline on the back of the waterpump is afixed right to the pump itself and can't come loose.........once you are putting it back on the car,don't forget to put permatex #2 , the non-hardening sealant on all 6 bolts cause they ALL protrude into the waterjackets in your block.don't use silicone RTV, cause it just gunks up the threads if you ever take it out again.....joe:thumbsup: PS: also put new rubber O-ring seals, and a new timing cover waterpump shaft seal, which presses right into the timing cover......unless it's still in really good shape ofcourse....also, if you remove the metal drive coupler and get the orientation confused...the ridge on the drive coupler go's "IN" twords the block...if this is in backwards it will leak bad......good luck with it......Joe
 
#5 ·
Ok thanks alot for the info guys, I did NOT see that there were 6 bolts! But, I was rather PO'd anyway after finally getting my brakes to shut up, only to put it in the garage to see a puddle of coolant in the floor, .....the heck with MY midlife crisis, I think my car's having one!
I really appreciate the info and tips!